Chenonceau – Chateaux of the Loire Valley

The elegant chateau we see today spanning the Cher River in France was built between the years 1515 – 1559, starting first with a residence on the river accessed by a bridge.  Later, an arched bridge on the other side was constructed, reaching all the way to the opposite bank.  The bridge would eventually include a grand gallery and a floor of rooms above that.  Chenonceau is built entirely across the middle of the river Cher! At each end of the chateau there are access walkways to the riverbanks. Women who have inhabited this chateau throughout history have influenced its design, including its gardens.  Chenonceau is often described as “the ladies chateau” for this reason.

Outside the Chateau de Chenonceau

The approach to the Chateau de Chenonceau leads you up a wide, tree-lined promenade filtering dappled sunlight onto the crushed sandstone pathway.  The stately trees form a line of sight that draws you forward with anticipation.

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Walking towards the Chateau on the river Cher

When you emerge from the avenue, potted citrus trees continue the line along the entrance pathway towards the chateau. The path takes you past gardens on either side competing to invite you to stroll around and admire their beauty.

After you have soaked in the tranquillity of the gardens, you are ready to proceed to the entry courtyard. Cross the moat into the charmingly decorated renaissance residence.  Chenonceau with its white stone walls, conical towers, and blue-grey slate tiled roof, brings to mind images of fairy tale castles in a land far, far away.

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Chenonceau on the Cher
Inside the Chateau de Chenonceau

In keeping with the theme of “the ladies chateau”, many of the rooms have stunning flower arrangements on display. A reminder of how it once was, when occupied by the lady of the house. Imposing hallways with vaulted stone ceilings and terracotta tiled floors link the rooms. Marble staircases, and lace-like leadlight windows offer magical views out over the river, leaving a lasting impression.

Marble Staircase
Marble Staircase

Standing on the balcony above the front door, you can see out over the entry courtyard and into the impeccable gardens beyond.  Most of the rooms are completely furnished as they would have been in past eras. The decore includes many original pieces of centuries-old furniture, colourful 16th century tapestries, ornamented wall panels and grand fireplaces.

I found the kitchens and servants’ rooms immensely fascinating, being built into the pylons of the arched bridge.  Stepping into the basement area, was like walking through a museum with all the antique décor.  As you are wandering through the servants’ dining rooms, kitchens, butchery, pantry and so on, you realise that you are actually in the middle of a river. It does feel a little peculiar to know the water is flowing past the rooms you are standing in.

The grand gallery with its exposed beam roof spans the river.  Windows on both sides allow sunlight to stream into the room throughout the entire day. Originally the ballroom was used for occasions of pomp and splendour. In later life, it was used for more sober activities. The ballroom became the single point of access from occupied France to the free zone, and was used to smuggle people out to freedom during the Second World War.

Grand Gallery Chenonceau
The history of the Chateau de Chenonceau

It was interesting to learn that women have played a strong role in the design and preservation of this graceful chateau throughout the course of history, even though they have not always held direct ownership. Katherine Briçonnet was the pioneer who oversaw the construction of the new residence in 1515. Diane de Poitiers became the next champion of the chateau. She commissioned the building of the arched bridge joining Chenonceau to the opposite bank of the river.  Diane also arranged the planting of gardens adjacent to the river, reinforced by stone walls to protect them from flooding.

In 1559, Regent of France, Catherine de’ Medici favoured the residence with her presence and spent considerable money on enlarging the chateau. Most notable was her addition of the grand gallery with rooms above. This extended along the entire bridge with a doorway at the far end providing access to the opposite bank of the Cher.  After changing hands a few more times, the widowed Louise Dupin was able to save Chenonceau and its contents from destruction during the French revolution. She achieved this by asserting the importance of the bridge, being the only one across the river for many miles.

During the First World War, the chateau became a hospital. Stories say that the owner’s wife at that time helped with nursing the patients. Sadly, Second World War bombing caused damage to the chateau .

UNESCO World Heritage Site

Extensive renovation works have lovingly restored the chateau to a reproduction of its former glory. As a result, we can once again enjoy this enchanting chateau, which has been included on the UNESCO World Heritage List.

Allow yourself at least two hours to enjoy the gardens and the chateau at a leisurely pace.  To purchase your tickets online, and for information on opening hours, please visit the Chenonceau website

[Affiliate Link – If you click the below Booking.com link and make a booking, I may make a small commission at no additional cost to you.]



Booking.com

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